There are two ways to wake up to Cappadocia’s famous hot air balloons: watch them fill the sky from a rooftop, or climb into a basket and float above the valleys yourself. We were lucky enough to do both. And while the balloon flight was every bit as magical as I’d hoped, Cappadocia turned out to be so much more than its famous sunrise photographs.
We spent three nights in Göreme in October 2025, arriving late after our Turkish coast gulet cruise and leaving for Istanbul after two full days. In between, we slept in an actual cave room, explored rock-cut churches and an underground city with a private guide, found a Turkish bath on a whim, and ate everything from casual börek to a beautiful tasting menu.
Travel note: This is our actual October 14–17, 2025 experience, with our own photographs and firsthand recommendations. I’ve linked to official sites where useful, but current prices, opening hours, flight products and tour availability should always be checked before you go.
Our three nights in Cappadocia at a glance
- October 14: Arrive very late via Kayseri Airport and check in at Koza Cave Hotel in Göreme.
- October 15: Watch sunrise balloons from the hotel terrace; take a private sightseeing tour to Göreme Open-Air Museum, Paşabağ (Monks Valley), Kaymaklı Underground City and the Pigeon Valley viewpoint; explore town and find a last-minute Turkish bath; dinner at Nazar Börek & Cafe.
- October 16: A very early hot air balloon flight with Royal Balloon; time to enjoy Göreme; a tasting-menu dinner at Seki in Uçhisar.
- October 17: Check out and fly from Nevşehir back to Istanbul.
Was three nights enough? For the things we wanted to do, yes. We fit in a really good amount without feeling we had to spend every minute sightseeing. The cave hotel and early mornings were part of the experience—not merely somewhere to sleep.
Where we stayed: Koza Cave Hotel in Göreme
I would absolutely recommend Koza Cave Hotel. Staying in a cave hotel was high on my Cappadocia wish list, and Koza lived up to it. Our stone-walled cave room had real character, but it was also genuinely comfortable: we slept well, and the bed and room felt cozy rather than like a novelty.
Another small but wonderfully practical detail: we used the hotel’s laundry service. It was reasonably priced and made life so much easier midway through a trip that had already included Istanbul and several nights on a gulet. It’s the kind of amenity I’m grateful to know about when planning a multi-stop itinerary.
The rooftop is the real showstopper
Koza is known for its high rooftop viewing terrace overlooking Göreme, and the sunrise views are astonishing. On our first full morning, we got up early just to watch the balloons. In the darkness we could see them beginning to glow and inflate in the distance; then, gradually, the sky filled with dozens of balloons.
We enjoyed Koza’s breakfast buffet on our non-balloon mornings. It was a nice, varied spread in a breakfast area just below the highest terrace, with lovely views of its own. The location made walking to restaurants and around central Göreme easy, although there is one caveat: the hotel is up a hill. The uphill walk back is a bit of a trek! It is well worth it for the view, but something to know before you book.
Our private Cappadocia tour: four very different stops
We arranged a private sightseeing tour through Koza Cave Hotel. It was a terrific decision. Our guide was knowledgeable, and having a van to drive us between sights removed the hassle of planning transportation between places that are spread around the region. We saw a lot in the morning, leaving our afternoon free to explore Göreme at our own pace.
Göreme Open-Air Museum
The Göreme Open-Air Museum is one of Cappadocia’s signature historical sights: rock-cut churches and monastic spaces carved directly into the soft volcanic landscape. We walked through the site with our guide for much of our visit, then he gave us roughly 45 minutes to wander independently. I liked that balance; it was helpful to have the history explained, but we also had time to explore and take photos without being rushed.
Paşabağ (Monks Valley) and its fairy chimneys
This was our second stop after the Göreme Open-Air Museum. We walked among the extraordinary fairy chimneys at Paşabağ, also called Monks Valley—one of those places where the landscape looks almost impossible. A helpful distinction for fellow planners: Paşabağ and the separate Zelve Open-Air Museum are often grouped together on sightseeing maps and tickets. It was Paşabağ we visited, not Zelve.
Kaymaklı Underground City: spectacular, but know what you’re getting into
Visiting Kaymaklı Underground City was fascinating. Rooms and passages twist through the rock beneath the surface, with a whole world of spaces connected by corridors. Some are fairly open; others are very narrow and very low. In certain sections you simply cannot stand upright.
I especially appreciated something our private guide did before taking us in: he asked how claustrophobic we were. That’s a good question to ask! This isn’t a sightseeing stop where every passageway is roomy or where everyone will be comfortable. If low ceilings or tight spaces bother you, discuss the route and your comfort level with your guide before you go.
Pigeon Valley viewpoint and the evil eye tree
We also stopped by the famous evil eye tree and enjoyed the lookout over Pigeon Valley. To be clear, we didn’t hike down into the valley; we admired it from the viewpoint. It’s a good example of how a private tour can work well even when you want to experience the scenery without committing to a longer hike.
A free afternoon in Göreme—and an unexpected Turkish bath
After our tour, we had time to walk around central Göreme, stop in a café and explore. The town was easy to navigate on foot from our hotel. And while we liked being there, we found we didn’t need an entire afternoon simply to wander downtown.
That extra time led to a lovely surprise: we found a Turkish bath that could take us at short notice. I honestly hadn’t expected a hammam experience to be something we could arrange so spontaneously. I no longer remember the name of the one we used in Göreme, so I won’t guess—but it’s worth asking locally if you suddenly find yourself with a free afternoon. We later had an especially memorable traditional hammam experience in Istanbul, too.
Hot air ballooning with Royal Balloon: absolutely worth it
The following morning was our turn to fly. We booked with Royal Balloon, and I can’t recommend our experience highly enough. The company clearly handles these early-morning departures all the time; everything felt organized and smooth, from our hotel pickup to the flight itself. Best of all, we adored our pilot, Kaan. He was fantastic.
Exactly what we booked and paid
- Flight date: October 16, 2025.
- Hotel pickup: 5:25 a.m. at Koza Cave Hotel (pickup times vary by season and weather).
- Booking: Royal Queen, with a complimentary upgrade to Royal Queen Plus.
- Flight duration: Approximately 60 minutes in the package we booked.
- Our price: €520 total for the two of us (€260 per person), booked in June 2025. This is our historical price, not a current quote.
- Breakfast: Royal Balloon provided a light breakfast of pastries, yogurt, coffee, juice and hot cocoa before the flight.
That last point is useful if you’re staying in a hotel with a wonderful breakfast, as we were. We did not eat at Koza on balloon morning; we had our breakfast with Royal Balloon. So don’t feel you need to find food before setting off in the dark.
It’s hard to put the flight itself into words. There were balloons everywhere, some in the distance and others floating remarkably close to us, with the valleys and fairy chimneys glowing in the early light. It was the experience I’d imagined when I first started dreaming about Cappadocia—and then some.
Royal Queen Plus is currently advertised as a smaller-group option than Royal Queen, with a maximum of 16 passengers versus 20–24 for the standard Queen flight. Both are listed at approximately an hour in the air, with hotel transportation and a light breakfast included. We loved the service we received; that complimentary upgrade was a wonderful bonus. Check the operator’s current flight options when comparing packages.
One important planning tip: give the balloons a backup morning
Flights depend on weather and aviation clearance, so even excellent companies sometimes have to cancel. We were fortunate that both mornings in Cappadocia had balloons flying. If taking a flight is a top priority, consider booking it for your first available morning and leaving another morning open as a possible backup. With only two full days in the area, a cancellation could otherwise be a major disappointment.
Where we ate in Cappadocia
Nazar Börek & Cafe: a casual Göreme dinner
Our first dinner was at Nazar Börek & Cafe in Göreme. I loved having a relaxed, local-feeling option rather than making every dinner a big event. The börek was a lovely way to sample more Turkish food, and the simple terrace setting came with another wonderful Cappadocia view.
Seki Restaurant: a lovely splurge, especially for the view
For our second dinner, we went to Seki Restaurant at Argos in Cappadocia in nearby Uçhisar. We chose the tasting menu and enjoyed a very nice evening. The service was excellent, and the view was absolutely amazing.
Would I say it’s a must-do for everyone visiting Cappadocia? No. I wouldn’t put it above the balloon flight, cave hotel, or historical sights. But if you’d like to make one evening more special, Seki is a beautiful choice. Be sure to build in transportation to Uçhisar rather than assuming it’s an easy walk from Göreme.
Practical things I’d tell someone planning the same trip
- Choose your cave hotel thoughtfully. We loved Koza for its comfortable room, excellent views, walkable location and helpful services. Just remember the climb back uphill.
- Watch the balloons even if you’re also flying. The rooftop view and the view from the basket are completely different experiences, and both were memorable.
- A private guide was worthwhile for us. In one morning we covered historical sites, fairy chimneys, an underground city and a scenic overlook without organizing multiple transfers ourselves.
- Do not underestimate Kaymaklı’s low tunnels. Check your own comfort with confined spaces before following the route underground.
- Leave some unscheduled time. We enjoyed Göreme, but didn’t need a huge block of time to explore the town center. Our unscheduled afternoon became an opportunity for a spontaneous Turkish bath.
- Think through your airport transfers. We arrived very late through Kayseri Airport and departed through Nevşehir Airport. Koza helped us with our arrival transfer, which took one worry off our plate.
- Pack for early mornings. Balloon viewing starts before sunrise, and the temperatures can be very different from those later in the day.
Would we recommend three nights in Cappadocia?
Absolutely. We were able to see the major sights we cared most about, enjoy a little downtime in Göreme, experience an incredible sunrise from the rooftop, and finally fly above the landscape that had drawn me there in the first place. I would happily return to Koza Cave Hotel, and I would book Royal Balloon again without hesitation.
Cappadocia was one piece of a bigger Turkey adventure, alongside Istanbul and a three-night gulet cruise along the Turquoise Coast. For our exact route, hotels, flights and the rest of the trip, read our complete 11-night Turkey itinerary.
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