Istanbul gave us two very different—and equally memorable—experiences. During our first stay, we were in the heart of Sultanahmet, walking between palaces, mosques and some of the city’s most remarkable historic sights. When we returned at the end of our Turkey trip, we stayed in Beyoğlu, and a completely different Istanbul emerged: lively streets, wonderful food, a pastry shop we found by chance and a bookstore so inviting we couldn’t possibly walk past.
If I had to explain the difference, I’d say this: Sultanahmet was where we went to see Istanbul’s history. Beyoğlu was where I fell in love with the feeling of being in the city.
We spent four nights in Istanbul in October 2025, split into two two-night stays on either side of an 11-night trip that also included a gulet cruise and Cappadocia. The split was a little unconventional, but it gave us a chance to experience two neighborhoods and compare two hotels. Here are the sights we loved, where we ate, what I’d recommend and what I’d do differently next time.
Travel note: These are our actual October 2025 experiences, with our own photographs and honest impressions. Opening hours, admission rules, prices and restaurant arrangements can change. In particular, the Basilica Cistern visiting schedule has changed since our evening visit; please verify current access before planning a nighttime visit.
Our Istanbul itinerary at a glance
- October 8: Arrive from Chicago, check in at Hagia Sofia Mansions in Sultanahmet, visit Hagia Sophia late in the day and have dinner at Bitlisli.
- October 9: Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace, Bosphorus cruise, dinner at Deraliye Terrace and an evening visit to the Basilica Cistern.
- October 10: Visit the Grand Bazaar before flying to Dalaman and heading to Fethiye.
- October 17: Return from Cappadocia, check in at Pera Palace Hotel and begin exploring Beyoğlu.
- October 18: Enjoy the Galata/Beyoğlu area, Dolmabahçe Palace and our reserved hammam treatment at Tarihi Çeşme Hamamı.
- October 19: Fly home.
Because we split our stay around other destinations, four nights did not mean four full sightseeing days. We were ambitious during the historic portion, and I would happily have added time to the city. But staying in two contrasting areas turned out to be one of the best things about our itinerary.
Part one: Sultanahmet and Istanbul’s historic sights
Where we stayed: Hagia Sofia Mansions
Our first hotel was Hagia Sofia Mansions, Curio Collection by Hilton. For a first visit centered on the major historic sights, it was a wonderful choice. We were very close to Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace and the Basilica Cistern, and being able to walk to so much mattered when we had limited time.
I loved the hotel itself, too. As much as I enjoyed Beyoğlu as a neighborhood, Hagia Sofia Mansions was my favorite of our two Istanbul hotels. If this is your first visit and history is your main sightseeing priority, I’d strongly consider Sultanahmet as a home base.
Hagia Sophia: an unexpectedly easy late-day visit
After our overnight flight from Chicago, we decided to jump straight into sightseeing instead of losing our whole arrival day. Our first major stop was Hagia Sophia, an extraordinary introduction to Istanbul.
We went in the late afternoon or early evening and, to our surprise, encountered practically no line. I wouldn’t treat that as a guarantee—prayer times, visitor procedures and crowds can all affect entry—but it’s a reminder that sightseeing timing can make a big difference.
First-night dinner: Bitlisli
For dinner, we went to Bitlisli, a kebab restaurant in the historic Sirkeci area. It was perfect for our first night: inexpensive, friendly and inviting, and it somehow felt genuinely local despite being in such a touristy part of Istanbul.
We felt so welcome. At the end of the meal, they brought us Turkish tea, which was a simple gesture but a lovely way to end our first evening. It’s exactly the sort of relaxed, affordable restaurant I’d look for after arriving in a new city, especially after a long flight. I’d happily recommend it.
The surrounding streets were lively, too, with outdoor tables, colorful lights and even a wandering Istanbul street cat. It’s such a warm memory of our introduction to the city.
The Blue Mosque and Topkapı Palace
Our next morning started with the Blue Mosque and continued at Topkapı Palace. Seeing these two places close together helped us appreciate how much history is concentrated on the historic peninsula. We also learned that our sightseeing agenda was pretty ambitious!
I would leave enough time for Topkapı rather than trying to squeeze it in between too many other attractions. And because the Blue Mosque is an active place of worship, check the day’s visitor rules, dress expectations and prayer times before heading over.
Seeing Istanbul from the Bosphorus
That afternoon we took a Bosphorus cruise. After exploring palaces and mosques on foot, it was wonderful to see Istanbul from the water and appreciate the scale of the city’s waterfront buildings. It was a different perspective and also a chance to slow down a little.
Later we had dinner at Deraliye Terrace, which gave us the experience of a Turkish rooftop meal, before visiting what became my favorite individual sight of our Istanbul trip.
Our favorite historic attraction: Basilica Cistern
I was completely taken with the Basilica Cistern. We went at around 8 p.m., when the illuminated columns, deep shadows and reflections in the water made the ancient underground space especially atmospheric. We also encountered almost no line, which felt like a gift after a busy sightseeing day.
Another remarkable detail to look for is the carved stone Medusa head used as a column base, turned sideways beneath a towering pillar.
I would absolutely prioritize the cistern on a first visit. But I have an important caveat about my timing recommendation: the evening entry arrangement we used is not something to assume will be available now. A November 2026 notice to travel agencies announced winter visiting hours of 9 a.m.–6 p.m., effective November 15, 2026. Check the latest official visitor information before scheduling a night visit. I’m recommending the experience, not promising that our 8 p.m. time slot can be repeated.
Grand Bazaar before leaving Istanbul
Before flying to the Turkish coast the next day, we made time to wander through the Grand Bazaar. The lanterns, colors and sheer variety of things to look at were a vivid way to spend our final morning in the historic part of the city.
We headed onward to Fethiye that afternoon for our three-night gulet cruise, followed by three nights in Cappadocia. Then it was back to Istanbul, and a very different atmosphere.
Part two: Beyoğlu and the joy of wandering
We flew back from Cappadocia and checked into Pera Palace Hotel in Beyoğlu. By this point we’d seen many of Istanbul’s big historical attractions, and I was ready for something else: a chance to enjoy the city without constantly moving from one monument to the next.
And this was the part of Istanbul where I wanted to linger. Around Beyoğlu and Galata Tower, there was the kind of energy and city buzz I love—restaurants, people out walking, shops, cafés and unexpected places to duck into. I could honestly picture myself spending much more time here, or even living in the neighborhood.
Our favorite spontaneous find: Şirin Fırın Bakery
One of my favorite Beyoğlu memories began with no plan at all. While walking near Galata Tower, we came across Şirin Fırın Bakery on Büyük Hendek Caddesi. The pastry display looked irresistible, so we stopped, split a delicious Dubai chocolate–style pistachio pastry and found a seat outside.
From where we sat on the street, we had a view of the Galata Tower rising between the buildings. It was such a lovely moment: a delicious shared treat, lively streets and one of Istanbul’s great landmarks right in front of us. It wasn’t a reservation or a must-do from a guidebook. We simply happened upon it.
Another place we couldn’t walk past: Minoa Pera
Our other wonderful unplanned discovery was Minoa Pera, a beautiful bookstore on Meşrutiyet Caddesi. Some places simply beg you to go inside and look around, and this was absolutely one of them.
There were books in Turkish and English, and the setting was enchanting: bookshelves, hanging greenery, warm light and an incredible staircase with books displayed beneath the steps. It’s the kind of store where browsing feels like part of the pleasure, whether you need another book or not.
Between Minoa Pera and Şirin Fırın, I realized that one of my favorite ways to experience Istanbul was just to wander. I love visiting a city’s major landmarks, but there’s something equally rewarding about leaving room for discoveries you never could have scheduled.
Galata Tower and the surrounding streets
The tower itself is an unmistakable landmark, but for me the surrounding streets were just as important as the view of the tower. This is where I felt the energy of Istanbul most strongly. If you’re staying in Sultanahmet, I would absolutely encourage you to spend unstructured time across the Golden Horn in Beyoğlu and Galata as well.
Our biggest Istanbul experience: a traditional Turkish hammam
Alongside the Basilica Cistern, the Turkish hammam was one of my top two Istanbul highlights. We booked an appointment at Tarihi Çeşme Hamamı Since 1720 near Galata, choosing the Kaptan-i Derya treatment.
It was unlike anything I’d experienced before, and it’s something I would wholeheartedly recommend considering on a visit to Turkey. I’m not going to pretend to give you a precise play-by-play of the treatment, but I can say that the experience itself felt truly special—one of the moments I remember most vividly from the entire trip. You can read about the options on the hammam’s own website.
I would recommend booking an appointment in advance for a particular treatment or time, as we did. And if you’ve never visited a Turkish bath, check with the hammam about how its treatments work, what’s included and what to bring. Our experience was so memorable that I’d place it near the top of a first-time Istanbul wish list.
Eating our way around Istanbul
Nakka Galata: the Turkish breakfast worth making time for
Our breakfast at Nakka Galata was fantastic. The table was absolutely covered with delicious little dishes, eggs, cheeses, breads and spreads. I loved how a Turkish breakfast can turn into a whole experience in its own right, rather than simply a quick meal before sightseeing.
Galaktion: a memorable Georgian meal
We also loved Galaktion, a Georgian restaurant in Beyoğlu. It was a wonderful change of pace from the Turkish meals we’d been eating, and the cheese-and-egg khachapuri was a standout. It’s exactly the sort of place I’d recommend for someone who enjoys seeking out interesting food while exploring a neighborhood.
What about the restaurants in Sultanahmet?
For an easy, reasonably priced and warm first-night dinner, Bitlisli was a winner. The friendly service and Turkish tea at the end made us feel welcome from the start. Deraliye Terrace was a more traditional rooftop-dining experience on our busy sightseeing day. Both worked well for the roles they played in the trip, but Bitlisli is particularly memorable for its simple hospitality.
Where would I stay next time: Sultanahmet or Beyoğlu?
It’s an interesting question because my answer depends on whether I’m choosing the hotel or the neighborhood. I preferred Hagia Sofia Mansions to Pera Palace as a hotel, but I preferred the atmosphere of Beyoğlu to Sultanahmet for spending time.
Hagia Sofia Mansions: my favorite hotel of the two
I loved the setting, room and convenience of Hagia Sofia Mansions. It made our first sightseeing days easier and was a delightful place to stay. If your plans revolve around Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapı and the Basilica Cistern, the location is an advantage.
Pera Palace: atmospheric, but our room wasn’t exceptional
Pera Palace is a famous historic hotel, and the common spaces and atmosphere are lovely. But our actual room was adequate rather than remarkable, with some visible wear. Dave, however, had a completely different opinion about one feature: he ranked the shower among the three best of his life!
I was also tempted by the hotel’s afternoon tea, served in a beautiful room I would have loved to experience. But it felt expensive enough that we decided against it. Overall, I would choose Hagia Sofia Mansions again if I were judging only the properties—but would be thrilled to return to Beyoğlu as a neighborhood.
Dolmabahçe Palace: one more dose of Istanbul grandeur
We also visited Dolmabahçe Palace during our final stay. After seeing it from the Bosphorus earlier in the trip, it was lovely to experience the palace and its ornate architecture in person. The waterfront setting and elaborate details are impressive.
What I’d do differently on a first trip to Istanbul
- Spend more time. Istanbul has so many layers that we could easily have filled additional days. Our sightseeing in Sultanahmet was ambitious, and I’d happily slow the pace next time.
- Keep the two-neighborhood approach, if time allows. Sultanahmet is wonderfully convenient for the historic sights, while Beyoğlu has the bustling neighborhood atmosphere I loved.
- Make room to wander without a specific destination. Our stops at Şirin Fırın and Minoa Pera were some of the most delightful moments of the trip—and neither was on our original schedule.
- Do the Basilica Cistern, but verify the hours. Our evening visit was magical; the current entry arrangements may be different.
- Book a traditional hammam experience. It was a genuine highlight and something I’d wholeheartedly recommend.
- Explore the Asian side next time. We didn’t get there on this trip, and it’s high on my list for a return visit.
The Istanbul I’d love to return to
I went to Istanbul eager to see its extraordinary history, and that part of the city didn’t disappoint. Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapı, Dolmabahçe and especially the Basilica Cistern were all memorable. But the things that make me want to return are also smaller and less predictable: Turkish tea offered at the end of a friendly first-night dinner, a pastry shared while looking up at Galata Tower, and a bookstore that practically begged us to walk inside.
If I had one piece of advice for a first-time visitor, it would be this: see the famous sights, but give yourself time to fall in love with the city between them.
Want to see how Istanbul fit into the rest of our trip? Start with our complete 11-night Turkey itinerary, then explore our guides to sailing the Turquoise Coast and three nights in Cappadocia.
Leave a Reply