Guatemala had been on our calendar once before. Dave and I had arranged a trip for 2020, only to have COVID cancel it. Five years later, we finally made it—and brought much of the original plan back to life, with one particularly lovely upgrade.
For our seven nights in Guatemala, April 5–12, 2025, we divided our time between three nights in Antigua and four nights at Lake Atitlán. It was a combination I would happily recommend: cobblestone streets, extraordinary food and history in Antigua, followed by water, volcanoes, little lakeside villages and a gorgeous hotel where slowing down felt like the whole point.
I tend to choose places as much for how they feel as for any checklist of attractions. This trip rewarded that instinct. Antigua gave us some unforgettable—and largely unplanned—Holy Week experiences. San Marcos La Laguna, a town I wasn’t sure I’d like, turned out to be one of the sweetest surprises of the week.
Our seven-night Guatemala itinerary
April 5–8: Three nights in Antigua
We stayed at Hotel Genessis, a garden-filled base for exploring the historic city on foot. Antigua is wonderfully walkable, and a lot of our favorite memories came from simply turning corners and seeing what was happening.
Our first dinner at La Fonda de la Calle Real was an early food highlight. The owner’s wife was incredibly kind, helping us order beyond the obvious choices on the menu and giving us pointers about the religious processions taking place around town.
We had known we were traveling ahead of Easter, but we hadn’t built the trip around Semana Santa. Discovering the elaborately patterned alfombras—beautiful carpets of colored sawdust and flowers prepared in the streets—and then seeing a huge procession was an extraordinary bonus. It felt like experiencing Antigua at a very special moment.
We also took a horseback excursion to Pacaya Volcano. The ride got us part of the way, but it wasn’t all horseback: we finished on foot across rugged volcanic rock. There was pizza involved, too, as promised by the tour, although I can’t personally verify precisely how the volcanic-heat cooking worked. It was a memorable change of pace from the city.
On another day, we took a tuk-tuk up to Cerro de la Cruz and walked back down into the city, visiting the historic Capuchinas convent and passing Santa Clara’s exterior. We enjoyed a rooftop stop at Antigua Brewing, and had a wonderfully quirky dinner at tiny Por Qué No?—where reaching our table meant tackling extremely steep stairs with a rope to hold for support. Charming, delicious, and definitely not for everyone.
April 8–12: Four nights at Lake Atitlán
We arranged a private transfer from Hotel Genessis to our next base: Lush Atitlán in San Marcos La Laguna. The hotel was honestly a major reason I wanted to visit the lake in the first place. The pictures were so beautiful that I hoped the real property could live up to them. It did.
Our original, canceled 2020 reservation was for a different room. When we rebooked, we upgraded to Mirador, a two-story suite with a wonderful bedroom view, an open-air bathroom and our very own private terrace overlooking the lake and volcanoes. That terrace was the stuff of travel dreams. We could even have breakfast delivered there.
Before arriving, I wasn’t sure San Marcos would be for us. You read plenty about its hippie, yoga-loving, expat atmosphere, sometimes not as a compliment. But we loved it. There were pretty little lanes, inviting cafés and gardens, affordable spontaneous massages, and a relaxed, inclusive feeling. Having both lived abroad, Dave and I don’t automatically see a strong expat community as a negative; it can be part of a place’s appeal.
That doesn’t mean we’d necessarily want to live there forever. San Marcos can feel quite removed from the rest of the world, and, as a foodie, I found the restaurant scene pleasant rather than thrilling. Antigua was where we ate truly memorable Guatemalan food; around the lake, the ambiance and scenery were the stars. Lush’s breakfasts, however, were genuinely excellent.
Getting around the lake and exploring other towns
We took public boats around Lake Atitlán, including a day when we visited San Juan La Laguna and then San Pedro La Laguna. San Juan was a riot of color: street art, murals, painted pavement and textiles. I loved the atmosphere and the opportunity to see traditional weaving.
From San Juan we took a tuk-tuk to San Pedro. Here’s one practical tip I wish we’d known: tell the driver you want the tourist area or main drag, not simply ‘San Pedro.’ We were dropped on the outskirts and ended up with a substantially longer walk than we’d intended.
At Sababa in San Pedro, the meal was good, but the lake view was what made it special. We also saw several appealing Spanish schools, including one with a little classroom overlooking the lake. Someone at the next table was doing Spanish homework—very on-brand for a town known for language study.
Our Chichicastenango day trip
Another day, we took the ferry to Panajachel, where the owner of Guate Driver met us for a private trip to Chichicastenango. He was excellent, and I would recommend the driving service.
He arranged a local Maya guide, José, who had years of experience and knew the market, churches and local customs exceptionally well. We walked through vivid market stalls and produce sellers, visited the cemetery, ate Guatemalan food, and were taken to observe a Maya ceremony away from the usual tourist bustle.
The ceremony was unlike anything I’d seen. There were no other tourists, and it felt intensely private. I was grateful to witness it, but also a little uncomfortable about being present for something so personal. That complexity is part of my memory of the day; I wouldn’t want to turn someone else’s sacred experience into a tourist spectacle.
Our guide could also be a little pushy about purchases and tipping, which wasn’t our favorite part. I would separate that from Guate Driver’s excellent service: the owner arranged the experience, but the pressure came from the local guide, not from our driver.
San Marcos nature, a steep climb and easy evenings
We spent time in Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve following the lakeside paths and stopping at viewpoints. Even without making a dramatic leap from the well-known jumping platform, it’s a gorgeous place to spend time outdoors.
We also made the climb up to Eagle’s Nest for an afternoon of views and café time. It’s an incredible perch over the lake, with a bohemian, communal feel. But do not underestimate that climb: the steep uphill trek is real, and I certainly wouldn’t want to drag luggage up there.
The social side of San Marcos was part of the fun, too. During our stay at Lush, we joined a drum circle and a concert that guests could attend without an extra charge. The atmosphere was welcoming, open-minded and wonderfully relaxed—exactly the energy that had surprised us about the town.
What we’d tell someone planning a similar trip
Split your stay between Antigua and Lake Atitlán. They offer very different sides of Guatemala, and the contrast made our week much richer. In Antigua, leave room for wandering and eat plenty of traditional food. At the lake, choose your base carefully: every village has its own personality, and the choice matters.
Think about stairs, hills and luggage. Antigua’s cobblestones, Lush’s hillside suites and the climb to Eagle’s Nest are all reasons to pack practical shoes and check accessibility in advance. The Mirador suite, for example, requires substantial stairs; Lush currently notes 60 steps to reach it.
Use boats with a little flexibility. We relied on ferries to visit lake towns and to reach Panajachel for our Chichicastenango excursion. Ask locally about the day’s routes and return services rather than assuming you can travel between every town at any hour.
Don’t feel compelled to fill every hour. My happiest Lake Atitlán memories are breakfast on our terrace, a spontaneous massage, a cup of tea in a pretty café, or simply watching the mountains change in the light.
Would we do it again?
Absolutely. I would return to Antigua for the food, history and wonderful energy; to Lake Atitlán for those extraordinary views; and to San Marcos because it charmed me more than I ever expected. After waiting five years to make this trip happen, Guatemala turned out to be worth every bit of the anticipation.
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