Lake Atitlán was the second half of our seven-night Guatemala adventure, after three nights exploring Antigua. But if I’m being completely truthful, one particular hotel overlooking the water had been drawing me to the lake for years. Lush Atitlán, in San Marcos La Laguna, had captured my imagination long before we finally arrived.
We spent four nights at Lake Atitlán, April 8–12, 2025. I expected the lake and its volcanoes to be gorgeous, and they were. I was less sure we’d love San Marcos itself, given its reputation for a free-spirited, heavily international yoga-and-wellness scene. Four nights later, I found myself imagining what it might be like to spend a whole season there.
This is how we spent our time: our extraordinary hotel room, exploring three distinct lakeside towns, some very good views (and perfectly decent food), a day trip to Chichicastenango, and the kinds of spontaneous, slow moments that made us fall for the place.
Our base: Lush Atitlán in San Marcos La Laguna
We had originally booked Lush for a 2020 trip that was canceled due to COVID. When we finally rebooked Guatemala five years later, we upgraded from our planned Pescado room to the two-level Mirador suite. It was an indulgence that turned out to be worth it.
The suite had wonderfully individual design details, arched windows, its own living space and kitchenette, and an open-air bathroom with a bathtub. But the feature that completely won us over was our private terrace. Sitting beside our round stone table looking out across the lake and volcanoes felt like stepping into the photos that had made me book the hotel in the first place.
Lush could deliver breakfast to our room, so most mornings we ate outside in complete privacy with the lake spread out in front of us. And the breakfasts were excellent. We tried the main breakfast spot only once, not because it wasn’t lovely but because giving up that terrace was very difficult.
Lush’s gardens and paths were beautiful, and the service and thoughtful details lived up to the setting. Even better, the hotel had an easygoing, welcoming social atmosphere. We attended both a drum circle and another music event during our stay; hotel guests could join without an extra charge at the time.
Important practical note: this is a hillside property, not a flat resort. The Mirador suite has a substantial stair climb—Lush’s room information indicates approximately 60 steps—so choose your accommodation with mobility and luggage in mind.
San Marcos: hippie reputation, genuinely charming reality
I’d read mixed descriptions of San Marcos before we came: hippie-dippy, overly expat, too focused on yoga and spirituality, a little detached from ‘real’ Guatemala. And I can understand why that scene wouldn’t appeal to every traveler. To our surprise, though, we loved the town.
It was full of the kinds of details that make me happy: small pretty restaurants, little gardens tucked off pathways, bohemian cafés, relaxed people, and enough unexpected places to duck into that a walk through town never felt dull. We could book a spontaneous inexpensive massage, then find a café that looked inviting simply because of its greenery and cozy seating.
Dave and I have both lived abroad, and we aren’t automatically put off by an international expat community. We could imagine how easy it might be to meet people and settle into a routine here. At the same time, San Marcos feels relatively isolated, and I wonder if I’d miss some of the energy and variety of a larger place over time.
Our favorite San Marcos cafés, restaurants and little indulgences
Il Giardini: the garden sold us
We came across Il Giardini on a walk and thought the garden looked too inviting to pass by. It was quiet—almost empty—when we visited, which only made the sweet setting feel more peaceful. We enjoyed the experience, and it was exactly how we picked many of our meals around the lake: the atmosphere pulled us in.
Tul y Sol: dinner with a view
We also had an enjoyable dinner at Tul y Sol. With the lake below us and mountains beyond, the setting was the real attraction. I remember the atmosphere and the sense of being beside Lake Atitlán more vividly than what we ordered.
Samsara Café and Tercer Ojo
Samsara Café was a particularly charming stop for tea and coffee. It delivered the cozy, pretty, slightly whimsical café experience that we kept finding in San Marcos.
We also enjoyed Café Bakery & Restaurant Tercer Ojo (part of the Fata Morgana group), another place we chose largely for its atmosphere. These meals were enjoyable and decent, but I don’t want to oversell the food: the dining scene in San Marcos wasn’t a culinary highlight for me. We ate much more memorable Guatemalan food in Antigua. Around the lake, we gravitated toward international and expat-style cafés, and it was the gorgeous spaces—not remarkable cooking—that kept winning us over.
Lush’s breakfast was the happy exception. I really looked forward to it every morning.
Massages without much planning
A delightful little perk of San Marcos was how easy it was to arrange an affordable massage, sometimes on the spur of the moment. We had three massages during our four nights: one near the lake by Lush and two in town. That casual, accessible wellness culture was part of the appeal.
Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve: a gorgeous walk beside the lake
We visited Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve in San Marcos, wandering through the trees, following paths and steps above the water, and enjoying the views. The lake is so clear and blue from those viewpoints that simply stopping and looking is a worthwhile activity.
You don’t have to jump from the famous platform to enjoy the reserve. We appreciated the quieter corners, shaded places to sit and spectacular view of the volcanoes across the water.
Eagle’s Nest: glorious views, a lot of uphill
Another outing took us up to Eagle’s Nest, a hillside retreat known for its dramatic yoga and movement space overlooking the lake. I can absolutely understand the appeal of staying there, especially for younger travelers looking for a social, communal experience. It had a very bohemian, hostel-like feeling from what we saw. We only visited briefly, so I wouldn’t pretend to review the rooms as an overnight guest.
The property has a range of accommodations, including shared-bathroom choices and more private options. Check the actual room category before booking rather than assuming every guest shares the same facilities.
But here’s the detail I’d emphasize: the trek up is no joke. It is steep enough that I would not relish hauling luggage up to the hotel. The climb begins near a large multi-story building on a steep street, and it really does keep going.
Once you’re up there, you understand why people make the effort. The massive open-air platform looks out over the lake and mountains, and the relaxed seating spaces invite you to stay awhile.
A day trip by boat: San Juan La Laguna and San Pedro
One of the things I loved about staying on Lake Atitlán was how easy it was to experience very different towns in a single day. We took a public ferry to San Juan La Laguna, walked its decorated streets and visited textile-related spots, then hired a tuk-tuk to continue to San Pedro La Laguna.
San Juan: murals and colorful streets
San Juan was a joy to photograph. Colorful umbrellas floated over the streets; murals featured local culture, coffee, portraits and nature; and even the pavement had bold, intricate painted designs. We walked the main street and enjoyed simply soaking up all that color.
We also saw traditional textile work and had a chance to observe weaving. These are the kinds of details that make a short village visit memorable.
San Pedro: a lakefront lunch and Spanish-school daydreams
We went on to San Pedro by tuk-tuk. And here’s a tip earned the hard way: don’t just ask your driver to take you to ‘San Pedro.’ That’s what we did, and we ended up getting dropped toward the edge of town. The walk to the tourist area we’d actually wanted was longer than we’d expected. Ask for the main drag or a specific central landmark.
We had lunch at Sababa. The food was good, but the view over the water made it worth the stop. San Pedro is known for Spanish-language study, and that reputation was reinforced almost comically when the person at the next table was working on Spanish homework.
We also passed charming little Spanish schools, including one with a small lakeside classroom. I couldn’t stop imagining studying a language with Lake Atitlán outside the window. No, we didn’t take a class—but I loved the idea.
Chichicastenango by private driver and local guide
We spent another day visiting Chichicastenango, known for its expansive market and layered Maya and Catholic traditions. We took the ferry to Panajachel, where the owner of Guate Driver met us for a private drive to Chichi. We had an excellent experience with the owner and would recommend his driving service.
He arranged a local Maya guide named José, whose many years of experience showed in how much he knew about the town. Our route took us through colorful markets, to a church, through the remarkable cemetery, and to a local Guatemalan restaurant for lunch.
We also visited a place where a Maya ceremony was taking place. There were no other tourists present, and we were well beyond the busy market streets. I had never seen anything quite like it. I’m grateful to have witnessed it, but the experience also made me a little uncomfortable, because it felt so personal and private. I don’t want to present someone else’s spiritual practice as though it existed for our entertainment.
One less lovely detail: José could be pushy about buying things and about tipping, which we didn’t appreciate. I want to be quite clear that this was about our experience with the local guide, not the owner of Guate Driver. The driver and his service were excellent; the guide’s approach sometimes detracted from what was otherwise a fascinating day.
What I’d tell someone planning four nights at Lake Atitlán
Choose your base based on your personality. The villages around the lake have different atmospheres. San Marcos suited our love of pretty, relaxed spaces and a slow pace, but its wellness-and-expat culture isn’t going to be for everyone.
Budget extra time for boats and tuk-tuks. Public boats are part of the experience, but avoid arranging your day around impossibly tight connections. Know exactly which part of town you’re asking to be taken to, especially in San Pedro.
Be realistic about hills. Our Lush suite involved stairs, the nature reserve involved uneven paths and steps, and Eagle’s Nest involved a serious uphill walk. Pack practical shoes, and ask in advance about luggage handling and accessibility if that’s relevant.
Go to Chichicastenango with curiosity and respect. The market is photogenic, but it is also a real community and a place of religious significance. Private guiding can add a lot of context; it’s worth confirming expectations about shopping stops and tips before you go.
Do not over-plan the lake. Our most wonderful moments were sometimes the simplest: a private terrace breakfast, a pretty café, a massage we hadn’t arranged days in advance, or the way the volcanoes looked just before sunset.
Would we come back?
Yes, happily. Lush was everything I’d hoped, and San Marcos exceeded my expectations. The scenery is spectacular, the atmosphere felt welcoming, and four nights left us with wonderful memories. I would return for the lake, the calm and those unforgettable mornings on the terrace—while saving my big foodie expectations for Antigua.
Planning a wider Guatemala trip? Read our seven-night Guatemala itinerary and our detailed Antigua guide for the first half of our week.
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